WickettyWackitty

New Hampshire- Shaken and Stirred

2006-05-08T11:17:00.000-04:00

Monday, May 8th, 2006:

Been a while since a writing.... so blah,blah,blah, and all that. I just took a trip up Route 93, North, and went into the White Mountain National Forest. Spent 3 nights and 4 days on a solo camping trip which was freakin' great. Boy, my feet need to toughen up a bit, though.
The Kancamagus Highway, or Kank, as we "Noo In'glindehs" like to call it, although known for its scenic driving, biking, and multitude of day hikes, also offers access to the interior of the Forest for multi-day hikes. That's where I headed, 4.5 miles off of Route 93, exit 32.

Name's Bond, Mt. Bond. And this is the top. That's Mt. Washington in the background.

I went up two peaks, Mt. Bond and Mt. Bondcliff. I had two incredibly nice days and one drizzly afternoon/evening, but basically the trail to myself. Well, almost. I saw one woman, one crazy dude, and a black bear. Not too bad for 4 days, so there you go.
Cue the pictures.

Mt. Bondcliff, with Mt. Bond behind my head. If my expression seems a bit perplexed its probably because I had just had my first black bear encounter on foot. He crossed about 40 yards in front of me on top of the saddleback connecting the two peaks. He was a good sized bugger and I watched him for about ten minutes looking for food. Amazingly, he never picked up on my scent, which was definitely strong after all the uphill.

Here's that crazy dude I referred to earlier. His name is Calem. Met him a half mile from the top of Bondcliff, right when the snow was beginning. Wearing only Vans skateboard sneakers, a cotton T-shirt over a cotton jersey, and air force duct tape on his shins, he warned me of the postholing hell on top for the rest of the way. He did have a sleeping bag, a can of tuna fish, and a full bottle of Jagermeister. So, I took the obligatory haul(and then 3 more) to toast our meeting, and felt like shit for the rest of my postholing session. Then we said "bye" and he continued on his was back to the highway, a full 8 miles off, with two hours of sunshine left. Here's to walking statistics, just waiting to be recorded!!

What a place. Hard to believe it only a little over 2 hours from Boston.

Dahab, A Tribute(continued)....

2006-04-26T21:37:00.000-04:00

The Venus shop, Emad's shop. Mohammed is sitting on the left. Emad is not in this picture.

Last but not least we have two of the best friends I have made on my travels. These are the guys I hung out with the most out of all in Dahab.

Here's a blurry one of Emad(on right), owner of Venus, and Mohammed(behind at left). I saw Emad almost every day I spent in Dahab in fact, I maybe missed 2 days total. He may look quiet and sweet but he has a blood lust for chess. I sat many an hour with Emad and others playing game after game- while sipping on chai(tea) or hot ganzabil(ginger tea). For only learning chess 9 months before Emad is extremely good. Crafty, is the word. We had some good battles... and were well matched. I have been in contact with Emad since the bombings, and he is okay, I am happy to say.

And then there's Ibrahim. The restaurant soliciter extrodinaire. He spends most of his day talking with the tourists who walk by the Oxford Restaraunt and will remember their names, nationalities, as well as their promises to come back and eat for the whole time that they stay in Dahab! He is a sweet, a sincere, and a goofy guy who breaks the mold for many of the 23 year old males in the world.
I am very happy to report that Ibrahim has lived through the second bombing in his city of residence. The first was in Sharm el Sheikh last year. He must have an Angel looking out for him. Well, I hope he will have continued luck in his life, if it is only when he truly needs it.

And here's me manhandling Ibrahim, like the little brother he is.

Here's the tea shop battle: Chad against Emad- and Chad came out on top in this one. HAH!!! Ibrahim and Mohammed are there for all the shit-talking that they can handle. Sicilian Defense comes through!!
Its okay, after the match we went to a bar and I proceeded to lose four games of Ping Pong to Emad, so he got some revenge. Then we all danced to a generic DJ. That was my last night in Dahab. It was tough to leave but I'm glad those guys are still there.

Ahoya min ohm tanya(brother from another mother), that's what I am.

Dahab, A Tribute

2006-04-26T21:02:00.000-04:00

A sunset opposite the Red Sea. Right near the walkway wooden bridge.

Perhaps you have heard, that on this past Monday, April 23rd at about 7:00 pm(Egypt time) three bombs were detonated in separate locations in Dahab, Egypt. Yes, that's the same Dahab I left not more than 3 weeks before. The place where I spent over 5 weeks SCUBA diving. Though it is the third time a terrorist attack has targeted a tourist area on the Sinai Penninsula in the last 18 months, it is the first time I can say that I'm personally affected by it. To think that I may have known some of the locals that were killed is more than a bit disturbing.
Turns out that about 30 people were killed in all, 60 or so wounded. Most of the casualties were Egyptian tourists, though 3 foreign tourists were killed also- many more were injured. It is sobering to think that I town I spent a good amount of time in and considered relaxing could have been so devestated by violence.
Here's some more pics of Dahab. I still love that place; I hope all the people recover soon and do well. And I hope all those people I still have not heard from are safe.

Here's the backside(non-Sea side) of Seven Heaven Hotel the place I resided at while in Dahab. Wish I had better pictures of it and the owners Samir and Atif, as well as all of the many awesome employees, but I'm no photographer so deal with it. A great place where I met at least a few good chaps and chicks. They're remodelling so it'll be even nicer the next time we get there.

The "Blue Hole" dive sight(at left). What a frickin' dive, too. It was overcast this day but we had sun when it counted- going in and coming out.

Here's a true Shark:
DiveMaster Terry(at right). He's South African, likes to party, and is the main reason that parents should never let their daughters go anywhere near Dahab. Needless to say, we had fun diving together- he made a lot of money off of me. Yeah, and it probably all went to beer.

Some more of the lovely Bedouin girls. They are cute but they're all gold-diggers. At least they don't listen to hip-hop....

To think that such a beautiful place could be the sight of a horrific attack....

Jerusalem, around the Wall

2006-04-14T18:16:00.000-04:00

Kidron Valley(part of Valley of Jehoshapat)- just southeast of the city. The town of Silwan, an area that is known to harbor terrorists AND weapons, is visible on the left.

Here's a few pictures of what's around the Old City. Its kinda crazy- its been described as a crown surrounded by another crown. You see, the Old City is raised on a mound, and there are structures that form the "points" of the small crown. Then, there are the five or six mounts surrounding the city(mounts as in mountains, but really they're just hills) including: Mount Zion, Mount of Olives, Mount Everest, (no, not the one in the Himilayas), and Mount Scopus and a few others I can't remember the names of. At any rate, these mounts form the "points" of the larger "crown" that surrounds the Old City. Alrighty then.

Here's some of the stuff to see around the "Small Crown".

The Church of All Nations(or the Church of Agony) by the Garden of Gethsemane on the northwest foot of the Mount of Olives. The crazy bright gold crosses in the back ground are topping the onion shaped domes of the Church of Mary Magdelane. When the sun catches them just right the glow like they're on fire.
Here's the Garden(at right, which is to the left of the Church of Gethsemane). This is the place where Jesus is said to have come with His disciples and prayed alone the night before His crucifiction. This is also the place where he was turned over to the Romans by Judas Iscariot. And that is one "mother" of an olive tree on the right.

This is a few of the tombs by the Valley of Jehoshapat(see photo at top of page). I think they're(starting at the left) the Bnel Hezir Tombs and Zechariah's Tomb(at the right). Pretty wild, though. It seems that nobody comes down to see these things anymore.

The Franciscan Monastery by David's Tomb(on top of Mount Zion). I got up there a little later that day so the light was no good but the architecture is awesome.

I love this city!! Here's a picture from on top of the Tower of David(which is really the Tower of Phasael) inside the Citadel. You can see the gold Dome of the Rock to the right, the Russian Tower above and to the right of the Dome, and the steeple of the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer in the left center.

The Western Wall

2006-04-14T18:06:00.000-04:00

Also known as the "Wailing" Wall, on account of all the mumbling/sobbing prayers called out in its shadow. The most sacred place of the Jewish religion. The wall is said to have the original keystone to the First Temple- a temple that has been torn down, and will be rebuilt when the Saviour arrives again. So, the Jews pray to this wall.

The Wailing(Western) Wall. Directly on the other side of the wall is the Dome of the Rock(golden dome on the upper left) and its courtyard. Talk about two religions elbow to elbow.

The Orthodox Jew is a singular charcter. Usually clad in a black suit, a black derby hat, with two long locks of hair on either side of his face, they can be seen making there way to the Western Wall throughout the day. In the photo above they make up most of the crowd lined up at the base of the wall and are usually bouncing or stomping in a strange dance as they pray. It is required that when they pray that they pray with all of their mind, spirit, and body. The shuffling and stomping takes care of the body part. It is a sight to see.
Mostly I would just sit down in away from the prayers and watch all the people walking by. It was a very calming place to hang out for a few hours- a good place to get ready for or reflect upon the day.

The Dome of the Rock

2006-04-14T17:44:00.000-04:00

This mosque is one of the most sacred of all Muslim places. Inside this building, which is a functioning place of worship, is part of the rock that Mohammed and the horse he rode leapt off and ascended into heaven. Mohammed, for all those who don't know, is a prophet that the Muslim people revere, much like the Christians revere Jesus. Here are a few pictures of the "Dome" and the surrounding area.

Here's the mosque, which serves as the main mosque of the Old city. Nothing like hearing that "call to prayer", that summons all religious Muslims to pray to Allah, five times a day.

Here's kind of a tough-guy shot of a friend near the mosque. I felt I should photo-shop in the cowboy hat and Marlboro cigarettte, but really its just some nice New Zealander(Kiwi) that shared the same hostel as I.

Here's the kicker: my three wives for the day. An Aussie, a Korean, and a Japanese. We went to the mosque together, during the allotted visitor time- but I left alone. Too giggly and disobedient. The Japanese girl didn't even wear a scarf to cover her hair. Ah, well, I'll leave the multi-wife thing to the Muslims and Mormons.

The Old City

2006-04-14T17:24:00.000-04:00

I spent two weeks in Jerusalem. I repeat, I did NOT see any more of Israel because Jerusalem sucked me in and spit me out. I love this city. I should clarify: I love the Old City, that is, the walled city that has been torn down and rebuilt and still has some ancient ruins dwelling 20-30 feet underneath its modern streets. The rest of Jerusalem seemed fine and has plenty of nice museums and food places, but the Old City is so saturated with "stuff" that I wanted to move there.
Anyway, here's some shots from around town.

I just dug all those alleyways- especially at night.

Here's a few pictures of the inside and outside of the wall.

I'm BAAAACK!!!!(The Church of the Holy Sepulchre)

2006-04-14T16:47:00.000-04:00

Went across the Jordan/Israel border in my own coach bus. Not the limo I expected but it definitely showed Israel's goodwill toward Americans.

Friday,April 14th, 2006:

Well, I'm back at home, in the States. Hard to believe that whole crazy trip is finished. Good news, however, another crazy trip is always starting.... Today, I took a trip down to the basement of my Mom's house. There was lots of cleaning to do in a dungeon-like environment. Cobwebs, fungus, and mouse nests all greeted me with tender charm. I must have ran up and down the stairs with arms full of mildewy boxes a thousand times. Yeee-hah!
Anyway, it was bout time for an update so here it is. Jerusalem.

Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the supposed place of Jesus' burial. The tomb is nearby and you can walk in and see A tomb, NOT the tomb of Jesus. I also visited the Garden Tomb, which is more likely to be the place of the tomb for large reasons... but this one is inside the walled city and attracts pilgrims from all over the world.

The Holy Sepulchre: Here is a picture of the building built over the place where some believe Jesus was buried AND the larger structure built over that(the Church).

Another shot of some part of this Church.

And here's a bad picture of the stone slab(lower left, with people kneeling before it) that Jesus was laid upon after he had died. Many people come to this and cry and kiss it.

And here's one that kind of makes it look like Jesus has a disco ball head, but in reality its a mosaic, on a wall, and that's a hanging lantern partially covering His face.

Krak de Chaveliers- Another(yawn) Castle

2006-03-16T12:26:00.000-05:00

Back to Syria, between Homs and Tartus: TE Lawrence called it the "finest castle in the world", or something like that. Who cares? I don't. Its really nice though. It is the best preserved(or close to it), however, and would be any geeky Dungeon Master's wet dream to run a D&D campaign in it. Check your hitpoints at the door 'cause, "Valkyrie is about to die."
Its had an assorted history, like most of the things in these parts. Its got a great position and is fortified like a muthahf_ckah. And its got a restaraunt too- that's new in the last few decades, not orginal.
Enough about the facts though, here's some more pictures.

Lot of stone went into this thing. Fun little towers and doors all over the place.

Gandalf, the orcs are too many! What are men supposed to do against so much evil? Take a break at the restaurant and fuel up on good chicken, that's what. Better bring your gold pieces cause its pricey.

All in all it was a good place. Never taken by storm, and has kept up against the elements quite well.

The Dead Sea

2006-03-06T18:15:00.000-05:00

On the last day of my visit in Petra I went to the Dead Sea- the body of water between Israel and Jordan. It is a beautiful place even with all of the trash on the beach. Its so salty that its hard to swim because you float like a cork. This makes it easy to do all sorts of things that you can't do in other waters, such as, putting your feet and hands above the surface! When I was in 5 feet of water I couldn't touch the bottom as a result of this super buoancy.
The salt is like battery acid in the eyes, however, and I found this out. Good thing I had bottled water on hand to rinse out the pain.

The Dead Sea. Notice the white crust on the rocks from the salt accumulation from the water. Notice the Arab style haircut, too. Can you say, "cropped"?

Here's the proof. All limbs(and head, mind you) above the surface. Jesus may have walked on it- but I'm just a little lazier, I guess. The water leaves this nasty oil on your skin. Very bizarre.

The mud is supposed to have medicinal qualities. All it really seemed to do for me is to make me appear more CaveManish.

Petra- Take 2

2006-03-06T17:15:00.000-05:00

Just part of the mammoth city.

So, made it back to Jordan to see Petra again and this time the weather was perfect. So I spent two days hiking around there. Let me say this: Petra more than lives up to its reputation. Petra is HUGE. People have spent half ther life here assisting in the restoration of known sites- and more tombs and structures lie under the ground awaiting discovery. There is so many different places to explore that it makes the legs quiver just thinking about it. Its beautiful hiking too and not too hot when I was there- as it will be in less than a month.

Quick facts(kind of facts, anyway) about Petra:
-It is an ancient city of stone. Buildings are actually carved into the sandstone of the mountains!
-It was mostly built from 100BC to 100AD but the Romans did quite a bit in the 3rd-4th Centuries(please don't quote me on that)
-Moses and his sister were known to hang here. In fact, her tomb is supposedly there somewhere.
-Although the facades of the buildings are spectacular, the actual space in them are small and disappointing
-Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade featured Petra in some of its footage

At any rate, its an incredible place. In my opinion, it should be among the Seven Man-Made Wonders of the World. Hopefully my pictures can capture its beauty and immensity.

From far away it almost seems like a two-dimensional carving....

....but as you get closer you can see the many layers.

...and layers and layers. There are caves everywhere around here that served as dwellings for most of the people. Sometimes they are still used by the desert-dwelling Bedouin.

It all starts by following a road through a gorge that gets pretty narrow- especially with the walls that sometimes go up 300 feet.

Then it opens up to the Treasury- the most well known of the buildings. Recognize it from the movie?

But the shining jewel must be the monastery of El Deir. Damn.

The Monastery of Simon

2006-02-23T04:13:00.000-05:00

The Monastery with pillar leftover at center.

This place was constructed in 490 BC- at the time it was the largest church in the world. Eventually, it was fortified into a castle(surprise, surprise) and was a major stronghold for Christians when Islam came to Syria. And it all started with the life of an eccentric man.

Simon was a shepherd's son who moved into a monastery at a young age. As he became more and more pious, he became greatly annoyed with people and distraction. First he moved into a cave, but when people came on pilgrimmages to see this holy man, he became more agitated and then he began with the building of his pillars.

He started with a 10 foot high pillar, which he lived on. He wanted to be closer to God, and further from people. After 40 years of living on pillars, his last being almost 40 feet high, he became one of the most famous people of the 5th Century. People would come from miles away to see him and ask him questions. Sometimes he would answer, but mostly he just prayed, ate the food that people gave him, and pooped in the hole in the center of his pillar. And they praise him for this....

This stone is all that is left of Simon's 18 meter tall pillar. The monastery was built in the shape of the cross with the pillar at its center. Even though it is in ruins, the grandeur of the place still lasts.

The monastery takes up an incredible area. I tried to imagine the whole thing roofed. It must have been a sight.

And the view is not half bad either.

The Dead Cities

2006-02-23T03:48:00.000-05:00

A ruin of a villa in the Dead City of Serjilla. Serjilla is one of the best preserved of all the Dead Cities.

There are many Dead Cities from Turkey to Aleppo to Lattakia- a triangle that contains a different ruin every 2 miles. What is a Dead City, you ask? Well, let me try to tell you.

These cities were developed during the 4th Century AD. Though they were quite small by our modern standards, they were cities, or big villages. They were Christian originally, had churches, and beautiful villas- or big homes with gardens. Grapes and olives were abundant, so wine and olive oil were too.
Not much went into the protection of the cities so they were easily taken over by invaders of the Muslim and Crusader type. Too much wining and dining, I guess.

This is one of the olive oil production areas. The tools and containers were cut right into the rock. Here is the stone and press(in the bottom right), the two first filters(top left, with water), and the secondary collection tank(top right).

The remains of a very large villa- possibly the mayor's house, or something. All the buildings are built with limestone which is a soft rock. Therefore there were many beautiful carvings in the pillars and throughout the city. And the limestone quarry could always be turned into a bath house, or a mousaleum, or other such 'thing'.
Gotta love a city based around wine and olive oil- wait a minute, that sounds like the country of Italy. What a country! Let's toast.

The Citadel

2006-02-23T03:09:00.000-05:00

In the middle of Aleppo, just by the Souk, is this huge 'thing'. The site itself, a natural "mound", has been used since around the 10th century BC- most likely as a holy place. The first fort construction happened somewhere in the 4th century BC and was an important Muslim fort during the Crusades(AD 12th Century). Throughout the ages it has been built up and re-fortified many times. It still holds a lot of the power it had in the past.
Pictures can only do so much justice but I'll try and convey the image of this place.

This is the keep- the entrance of the Citadel. Sure, its daunting enough....

....but you have to cross the big moat first. Notice the busy street to the right- the citadel is just off of the giant souk(shopping place) that is just frickin' crazy.

This Citadel is pretty damn big. It was a whole separate city- able to withstand an attack, so it has the works: housing, bathing areas(hammams), mosque, and all else it takes to have a small city.

I can't tell if this is the throne room or the inside of the mosque. I think its the mosque- anyway, its very nice.

Kind of peaceful from up here- overlooking the hub of Aleppo.

Jordan: A Tease and a Sneeze

2006-02-22T13:24:00.000-05:00

A graveyard in Petra, Jordan- and the most sunshine I saw while I was there.

Tartus, Syria- Tuesday, February 22nd, 2006:

I'm on the Mediterannean Sea again and boy did I smell it when I got off the microbus. Nice to be back on the sea. As Syria's second port, Tartus seems to be a popular get away for local tourists. I'm just using it to see a castle dating back to the Crusades. More on that later.

Staying true to form this update will just touch on Jordan. Petra turned out to have good "sniffles" weather so I never saw the ruins. Rain, hail, and snow kept me indoors but I shall return to visit the site of Petra. Insha'alah, as they say in Arabic- it translates to, "if God wills it." We non-commital tourists just use it as way to say, "I hope" or "maybe"- especially when dealing with the salespeople and guides.

Syria is just a lovely country. So much ancient shiite here. The people are genuinely nice, too, once you get away from the tourist sharks. But I'll try to let the pictures do most of the talking- course I must have a touch of commentary to go along with.

Enjoy Syria.

Jordan

2006-02-14T08:38:00.000-05:00

The desert in Wadi Rum. Notice the red, orange, yellow, and white sands.

This is Jordan. Big, beautiful, and inspiring(kind of like Jordan, my former travelling companion) it is a place to come camping in the desert. So, that's what I did- and may do more of. Its colder and wetter than Egypt but absolutely gorgeous. I spent a night with a man named Mohammed (please, no jokes) in his home/hostel and a night in the desert. Stayed in a Bedouin tent, ate a Bedouin meal cooked in Bedouin style- that's by digging a hole in the sand, getting a good amount of hot coals in the bottom, and putting the chicken, potatoes, rice, onions, etc. in pans over the coals, and then covering the hole with a lid and finally sand. Pretty damn good, too.

This(at right) is referred to as Lawrence's house. The name is misleading, however, as only the movie, not the man, used this site. The brick structure(located on the bottom right) is left from an ancient tribe. Lawrence, the man, did not stay here, but the filmmakers used the site for a panorama of the desert.

Here is the tent site with cooking pit in the foreground. That old jalopy is somehow running-don't ask me how. They cross wires to start it and drive it like criminals on the run. All the loose metal and missing parts make it LOUD- rattling, banging, burning, stinking. While cruising at about 40mph across scrubland, the driver, a 20 year-old Bedouin named Tesser, pumped hard at the break about five times, and nothing happened. While I was trying to figure out if it was really the clutch, he smiled at me, and explained easily, festively really, as if admitting his love of music, "No work, no work." Ohhhh, the exhiliration.

Another glorious shot of Wadi Rum.

More Egypt, I say

2006-02-14T07:48:00.000-05:00

Near Hatchepsut Museum. Luxor, Egypt

Petra, Jordan- February 14th, 2006

So, here I am, in Jordan- updating with pictures of Egypt- a move so typical of me. I was always a little behind in class, if you know what I mean. I arrived here three days ago. After a quick jaunt through Wadi Rum(made famous by the film Lawrence of Arabia) including 2 nights in the desert, I've made my way here, to Petra. Haven't seen anything here yet, so that'll be later.

Jordan is much more expensive than Egypt- but not so bad, really. Guess I've been a bit spoiled- instead of falafel for 2o cents, I have to pay about 75 cents. Still, I always want the best deal. The people seem just as nice as the Egyptians and the desert is gorgeous. Three different color sands(at least) with mountains, canyons, and a few natural springs.

Anyway, here's some more pictures of Egypt. Enjoy.

Dive site: Moray Gardens. Its about a 20 minute ride in our taxi(the white truck above) and a great place for corals and fish. Its low season here in Dahab so the three other divers and I had the place pretty much to ourselves, save for a few Germans(what the f_ck is wrong with German people?). So so so so so nice.

This is Dahab, too. Red Sea is right there. Tide is out.

People, the People

2006-01-26T06:52:00.000-05:00

How's about a nice little bus ride? Please, store your sanity with your luggage in the undercarriage and cut off the circulation to your lower extremities before we get a 6'3" Egyptian to do it for you.

So I hear so many questions concerning the locals in Egypt. Let me tell you that they are mostly sweet and smiley- sometimes a bit too friendly if you have places to be. Everyone invites you in for tea- tea in their shops, or a tea house, or their home. I have been fortunate enough to meet some wonderful local Egyptian(and Nubian-Egyptian) that have taken me into their homes and fed me and gave me tea. They are just happy to have a foreign guest- and never accept money or gifts unless the gift is chocolate.

The photograph above is my seat on the "ghetto" bus I spent 16 hours on in order to get from Luxor to Dahab. No sleep and cramps- what else can I say?! The town of Dahab is on the Sinai pennisula and actually a good place to hang out. Its a not too touristy town that's small enough to be comfortable, and its main attraction is diving in the Red Sea. Salty and incredibly beautiful, the Red Sea is considered one of the best dive sites in the world. It sure has taken me. I am considering becoming a Dive Master which would mean spending more time(and money) diving. More on that later....

For now, enjoy the people of Egypt- I sure am.

By the Colossi in Luxor(on the West Bank of the Nile). These two huge monuments are all that remain of an ancient palace. Oh, and there's some local dude who's work is posing in pictures for money.

These two cuties led me and Jordan through their village by Hatchepsut Monument. Originally, they tried to sell us some handmade dolls(I bought one) and asked for tips, but were more than happy just to have our attention.

This smiley dude posing with me is Bodeway. He runs a falafel place on the West Bank- and is a gracious host. He invited me and an Israeli girl to tea. When we accepted he insisted that he feed us a full dinner. Falafel, salad, beans, soup, tahini, and pita bread. So So good. So we spent a few hours outside his restaraunt eating, laughing- mostly at his comical facial expressions- and watching Arabic music videos. And he wouldn't even accept a tip. One of the best encounters so far.

The toughest salespeople in Dahab. Hard to say "no" to their beautiful faces and their cunning haggling skills. Only had to pay them each 1LE(egyptian pound, about 18cents US) for this picture. They may be tough, but I'm no chicken!

I'll let this one speak for itself. Also in Dahab.

Tunisia- Revisited(again)

2006-01-20T13:07:00.000-05:00

Djerba Island: A place to get busy doing nothing

Jordan and I went for a walk down to a pier on Djerba Island. Djerba Island is mentioned in the Odyssey as the place where Odysseus was waylaid by local women and lotus flowers. Didn't see any lotus flowers and the local women are Muslim- let's just leave it at that.
At any rate, lots of clay pots lying about tied down- possibly the ones that didn't sell. And a cuddly wittle kitten. Ouzhah Boo Boo!!

Tunisia- Revisited

2006-01-20T12:46:00.000-05:00

Hang loose, my Arab brothers.

So, maybe you heard me talk about the festival in Douz that Jordan and I had attended. And how I maybe left my camera in an internet cafe but got it back days later and that's why I didn't have any pictures from the festival or for most places I went in Tunisia? Well, thanks to our friend Nuria, whom we met with Charlotte at the Festival, I have pictures from Douz. Thanks, Nuria.

The festival is mostly attended by other Tunisians, some Libyans, and a small group of international tourists(like us). It is a jumble of events and we weren't really sure when it began or when it ended. The first event was something about some dogs chasing a rabbit but they ran out of the "arena" area and a bunch of guys ran after them.... and then some guys chased a camel that ran away. In fact, that's how most events(for lack of a better word) ended, with two guys chasing a camel over some sand dunes. Highly entertaining as long as you don't try to understand.

Part of the horse racing event. Really, it was more of a display of old style desert dress and horsemanship. Lots of standing on the saddle and whooping the arms and such.

This was by the Chotts(or saltwater lakes in the desert). When they dry in the summer the water leaves mineral deposits that look really cool. But its winter and we got water. Very beautiful, very salty(I tested). That's Nuria, me, Jordan, and Charlotte. Its like an album cover for a Christian Rock Band or something. Praise Allah, I say.

Back to Tunisia(briefly)

2006-01-20T12:37:00.000-05:00

Man, those movie makers are so sly- there wasn't even a roof on this piece! Its all about the camera angle.

Ever heard of the movie Star Wars(1979, SciFi George Lucas film)? Well in this picture you can see Luke's home in Tatouine. That's right, the place where the film was shot for Luke's home with uncle whathisface and auntie I'mgettingkilledsoonsodon'tremembermyname. There are still the plastic fake machine workings in the walls and of course many signed pictures from George Lucas and others but it is now a modern day bar and hotel.
By the by, the bar scene where Han Solo meets Greedo and Sny Snootles and the Rebel Band play music was filmed here as well. Woweee!!!! Even without the history its a really cool hotel with cheap rooms and open courtyards like this one.

Here our new friend, Charlotte, stands over the room like the evil droids that must have killed the aunt and uncle. Cheers!

That's the Weirdest Looking Ostrich.....

2006-01-20T11:58:00.000-05:00

You know how we roll, baby- how about you? One hump, or two?

Guess they call them "camels". That'd make me "The Camel Man"- cause I'm riding one. Jordan's there with me and the Pyramids of Giza are in the background- mostly covered up by me and Jordan on our camels. They're oddly comfortable to ride but it gives the phrase "hump sore" a whole new meaning.

The Pyramids, Dude

2006-01-20T11:28:00.000-05:00

I present: The Pyramids of Giza. Not the only Pyramids in this country, but the most popular. Not far out of the city, its amazing to see their silouhette behind the crazy buildings and driving of Cairo. There are three and they are all over 4500 years old. Bam!
Photos can't capture their magnificence. Even as a I stood by them(and even urinated on one's base) I could not believe their existence- but that's the closest I can come to describing the marvel. Here's some more photos anyway.
Jordan and I stayed past the "usual" time and as a result were witness to a sunset all by our damn selves- by the pyramids.

Don't miss the guard(doing what guards do) by the base. A little perspective for yous.

There's your sunset- did I mention that is was by the pyramids....of Egypt?!

And we shall not forget the Sphinx, located just down the hill from, you guessed it, The Pyramids!!

What the hell is a Falucca(Fah-loo-kah)?

2006-01-12T09:44:00.000-05:00

Pardon me, would you have any Grey Poupon- this pita is way dry.

Well, its what I went a little ways down the Nile in. Fair to say it would be referred to as a "sloop" in other parts. Was nice though, Mahoumed Ziggy(our captain) and his crew escorted us for three days and three nights on the river. They also fed us(pretty well) and gave us tea and coffee. We shared the boat with 10 people the first night, 6 the second, and just the two of us on the third.

Jordan and I were party to a party when on the first night the boat anchored off of a nice beach- had a fire with palm leaves, Nile-chilled beer, and lots of music. They're Nubian down south there- at least an Egyptian-Nubian mix- they love their drums and singing and dancing and they did this for us every night. The bamboo sax even entered the scene. Then fell asleep with blankets on the beach under the stars with the infectious Nubian rhythms in my head.

Yes, it was a good trip.

Modern Gladiators

2006-01-07T10:23:00.000-05:00

Tough lighting for the photo, but you get the idea.

You are all Gladiator(Bad-assed Russell Crowe movie taking place in ancient Rome) fans or you are women that are aware of its existence as a film. Therefore, I think you'll all appreciate the Coliseum in El Jem(Tunisia). It is this coliseum that the little magic movie people turned into the coliseum featured in Gladiator. Considering that it has existed for around 2000 years it is in remarkably good condition but still they had to do more than a bit of computer enhancement.

Jordan and I took it upon ourselves to throw the Frisbee(Discraft, 175g, Glow in the dark) in the middle of the arena. We imagined what it must have been like to have an unruly crowd of 30,000(that's right, the 4th largest Roman coliseum ever built) cheering me and booing Jordan. Pretty much we just annoyed some of the groundskeepers and scared a few Japanese tourists- but next time you watch the movie, just picture us out there taking on the world.

Its important to sweep away the carnage after any frisbee match- usually just keg cups and roaches.

Tunisia Pictures- Long Overdue

2006-01-07T09:56:00.000-05:00

Thank goodness for high-speed internet in southern Egypt. The town is Aswan, bottom of the Nile River and right above the large Lake Nasser(for those following along on a map. Hint Hint, MOM). We're not very far from Sudan and will be only 24 miles from the border tomorrow. I feel like I'm walking through the pages of National Geographic- and it feels good. Smells real, anyway.

But these photos are some of Tunisia that I haven't been able to publish til now. So there ya go.
Enjoy.

This is some of the ruins of Carthage overlooking Tunis.
This is just me being "artsy" in a really cool Cathedral near Carthage. Its the sun through stained glass windows on a column.
No, its not Moses being talked to by the Heavens. No, its not some drunk homeless person looking for money for cigarettes. Its Jordan, my newest travelling companion. Here he is pointing toward Italy across the Mediterannean- for no good reason.

Happy New Year(Revised Dedication)

2006-01-02T14:53:00.000-05:00

2006: Wowweeeeee!!!! Can you believe it!? Another year older and all I have to show for it is more shoulder hair. Coming in quite nicely, thanks for asking. I'm officially out of Tunisia and back in Egypt- this time to stay and play. Well, I figured I'd take this time to wish all y'all a Happy New Year. So, "Happy Freakin' New Year." I hope you all find what you need this year.

I'm also going to totally embarass Erika, too. She went back Stateside to see her family for the holidays and its been almost two weeks since I've seen her. Needless to say, I am a complete mess. Besides missing her company(badly) I find it hard to do little things by myself. I don't change my clothes(ever). I make a mess when I eat and go to the bathroom(especially when I do these things simultaneously), and I lose all sense of direction once I take ten steps. But mostly I miss her.
So, its time for a little tribute and a toast to the Beautiful and Headstrong woman. Enjoy your ten seconds of internet fame, you little spark plug, you. Love, CHad.
(Note: She was also the main photographer for this blog. All of the pictures from Cambodia and almost all from Thailand she took with her camera. Hot AND talented.)

I'll be publishing pictures as soon as I find a computer that will do it. Argggggggghhhhhhh!!!!
And here they are....

Tunisia- Faith Restored

2005-12-29T10:55:00.000-05:00

After leaving my camera and my CD of pictures from Thailand and Tunisia I went to a festival in Douz. Whoopsie!!!!!! Douz is located in southwest Tunisia, at the very fringe of the Sahara Desert, and hosts a three-day festival every year in late December. While at the festival we saw drummers and dancers, horse and dog races, and camel wrestling and camel races. It was pretty damn cool. Being some of the only foreign tourists was a refreshing change from the hordes in Thailand. Of course, I do not have any pictures of the events because I had left my camera behind in another town. Right.
While staying Douz I met a Touk(a local merchant) that told me how honest all Tunisians are. He said that if I left my passport in the center of the market overnight that I could return the next day to find it unmolested. I was extremely skeptical but thought how I would be able to test the statement by returning to the internet café four days later to see if my camera would be returned.

Well, Lo and Behold!!! Here I am, in the town of Gabés, at the same café I was at four days ago, sitting with my camera and CD(I know, the title makes it a little anti-climatic). The people of Tunisia get a Good People award from this kid. Not sure if I want to test again I am glad it happened.

Tunisia Entry- Finally

2005-12-26T04:58:00.000-05:00

December 26, 2006: Gabès, Tunisia

Had yourself a merry little Christmas, I hope. This kid had the Muslim kind. Dark, sinister, punctuated by Arabic music videos and bad soccer. Throw in loud coughing of the phlegm prayers at 6am and four more times throughout the day- and its a yuletide I probably won;t forget. Santa is a tall, dark dude, with no beard, that sits around a cafè smoking cigarettes and drinking cafè all day. I knew it all these years, the fake....

People laugh at me and Jordan all the time. They refer to my bearded friend as §Ali Baba§ but I think my name when translated to Arabic means something much more insulting like, § I wipe with my right §. I!m in the land of delicious mint tea, juicy sneezes, and messed up keyboards(maybe you;ve noticed the symbols?). And now this whole paragraph is double spaced- I should go soon.
I;ll write more when I can- internet is a luxury here. Happy New Year to all of yous- hope you like the Boy Scouts of Tunisia- friendliest people so far.

An Exhaust Problem, A Plumbing "Issue", A Rat Bastard

2005-12-16T07:27:00.000-05:00

A motorbike tatoo- those pipes are hot!!
It's healing nicely.

This is what happens when your bungalow is closest to the ocean(or the lowest down the hill) and it rains for a full two days. By the way, this is a squatting toilet, and those little "twigs" are really bugs- and they're alive. Not sure what kind of septic system they have but it not work so well. "I think it was the pate'."

This is what happens when you have three bungalow-mates, and one of them is a rat. This is why our stay might be extended(new passport). On a lighter note, he also tore up our toilet paper, soap, some foot cream, and (from the rafters) dropped a fresh shit on my toe. Rat Bastard will not be missed.(note that the nibbles are on the id page)

Brilliant Idea

2005-12-16T07:20:00.000-05:00

Got this great inspiration for a new kind of business. It caters to the lazy, unhealthy eaters of the world, who have no attention span(basically the younger generation). Its a store that every three seconds blares over the intercom, "Buy a snickers, a Gatorade, some Twizzlers, and a 'Computer Gaming Monthly' and go home!"
I'm accepting loans now.

Bamboo Sax

2005-12-16T07:15:00.000-05:00

Erika got me a little gift in Chiang Mai. Its made of bamboo and takes tenor sax reeds. I've found no better way to spend time on the beach, on the porch of my bungalow. Don't be jealous, most of you will here more than enough of the handy little thing.

I Gotta Phi Phi More!!

2005-12-16T06:47:00.000-05:00

A sunrise, our bungalow, and half the island. I got up really early one morning(5:ooam) and fought my fear of the Great White Shark and did some kayaking on a really tippy kayak, I nicknamed, Undependable Blue(it was blue). For those who don't know, I fear Great White Sharks, all the time. Not, like, in towns, or on buses, or at the movies, but more like around any body of water that I'm swimming in or hanging out in. I know that they grow up to 25 feet long, can way 2 tons, and attack by surging up from 30 feet below and knocking their victim(me) five feet in the air unconscious. Then they come in for the kill. And they like to feed at dawn and dusk. And its dawn. And they can smell my fear.
Now, I was out real early, even before the sun, and at that time I could not even see through the clear clear water. But I know that the Great White is there, and I'm bothered, but I'm playing it off pretty well- just focusing on the paddle strokes. Not scared of no shark, nope not me. Then, I hit a pretty good swell, a little too broadside(seems like I WAS focusing on something besides paddling) and the tippy blue kayak dumped me. Dumped me right in the dark water with Great White. That kinda sucked.
So, then I'm on the bottom of the kayak, spread eagle, gripping the paddle like a Sumari Sword, barely floating above the surface of the water. I was just thinking of how the sun rose a little since I started but then immediately went behind this Bastard Cloud- not too much more light. I figured at some point I would have to fully enter the water and attempt to get the kayak right-side up and get back in the damn thing. That's when I glanced over toward shore and saw a Thai guy, shirtless, smoking a cigarette, just staring at me. He's probably about 75 yards away and I swear I can see the expression on his face. Well, its actually no expression. He's just staring. I thought that this was funny.

In talking with a dive-instructor a few days later I found out that the Great White is a strictly cold water shark; the ones around Phi Phi are strictly crustacean eaters. Still, this doesn't change my attitude around the water- I KNOW that one is out there just waiting to make the switch to warm water and its gonna be when I'm swimming or kayaking.

Phi Phi Island

2005-12-16T06:40:00.000-05:00

Sorry to have to let all you know that we have a new home now. The rain and the rough surf during our stay could never have taken away from the beauty of Phi Phi Island. It was hit pretty hard by the tsunami but has been rebuilt quickly. There is construction still underway but there are many brand new guesthouses as well as some of the old that survived. Don't worry, there are PLENTY of tourist traps for those of you who want to spend way too much money on dinners and 5 star hotels.

Raya Island

2005-12-16T06:24:00.000-05:00

Raya Island was a great getaway from Phuket. Beautiful beaches with that same water that's all over Thailand: 75 degree crystal green. Some nice reefs around the island and the snorkelling was incredible. There were so many fish all around us it was hard to believe.
Our first room had a rotting mattress covered in ants so we moved into a nicer bungalow(with a dry mattress, no ants) and a more festive curtain/ bedsheet thing that Erika just loved.

The Dragon's Lair

2005-12-16T06:17:00.000-05:00

Raya Island harbored at least two of these beasts. For all who are not familiar with the monitor lizard, here is one. They are big mofos- the largest grow over 6 feet long. This one seemed to be the female- she probably measured about four feet from tip to tail. We saw her and her mate feasting outside of our bungalow's restaurant. Turns out that the kitchen feeds them on a regular basis. The male, was a little over five feet long, and mean looking. I thought we were on the island of Komodo for a few seconds.....

Sunny Days

2005-12-16T06:08:00.000-05:00

This was in Phuket at our guesthouse. One of the sunny days from so long ago. Now it drizzles in our face. Still warm, though. Its a really nice patio they had so Erika and I played a soccer match (Erika 4 Chad 1) but we stopped before one of us slipped and cracked our head open. Nice enough guesthouse- a lot of Norwegians "lived" there with their thai girlfriends.

Thailand's Final Curtain?

2005-12-16T05:20:00.000-05:00

Phuket Lobster

Phuket, Thailand's Southeastern Coast, December 16th:

So here we are, just a few days from our flight out of Thailand and it is possible that we may delaying our departure. That should come as a shock to most of you(so more on that later). Anyway, we've had a time down here. It was not quite what we expected, to say the least. Phuket is for Thailand what Cape Cod is for Massachussets. No, its not haven for gays. No, its not a place to hang out with a bunch of seedy fisherman and snort good cocaine. However, it IS an overcrowded beach town that is not as relaxing as the brochures advertise. And this town has a serious problem: Norwegians. They're big, they're tall, they're blonde-haired, blue-eyed, fair-skinned and talk like Arnold Schwarzenegar on mushrooms. Not good.

At any rate, we got out of that town a hit two islands. One called Raya Island. One called Phi Phi Island(pronounced Pee Pee, giggle giggle). Spent one night at Raya and ten at Phi Phi. It was relaxing by the beach doing nothing but snorkelling, kayaking, eating, and sleeping. However, it was cloudy most of the time and rainstorms hit us the last two days. Still real nice, but kind of kick in the mildewy shorts.

Again, I'll try to let the pictures do most of the talking(too late) but I do want to say that we have met wonderful Thai people on our journey. They truly are beautiful people with good hearts- it is easy to see why this is called the Land of Smiles. They smile all the time- even when they're charging way too much for a T-shirt or calling you a nasty Thai name. But they use it to say "Its all OK". And I see that it is.

A Connection is Made....

2005-12-04T07:21:00.000-05:00

...and large tissues will be needed.

I fed the thing three pounds of bananas and a good amount of sugar cane.....
...and all I got was snot covered shorts in return.

It was just a two year old baby- hasn't learned to turn to the side during a sneeze.

Gotta Have More Elephant

2005-12-04T07:09:00.003-05:00

And some more......

of our big-assed friends

More of Our Buds

2005-12-03T06:37:00.000-05:00

Our Big Buddies

2005-12-03T06:31:00.000-05:00

We went to an elephant camp and made some friends. They can blow harmonica, play soccer, drag logs, paint, and their shit makes a loud "whump" sound when it hits the ground.

What Tourists Shouldn't Do

2005-12-03T06:24:00.000-05:00

Other countries have just come to expect it from us.....

Chiang Mai - Scenes

2005-12-03T05:56:00.000-05:00

Just a few of the shots from around town.

Chiang Mai - December 2nd

2005-12-02T07:03:00.000-05:00

Well, well, well, its been a wacky week. First a quick recap: a goodbye to Harry(travel safe, good friend), a 15 hour train ride to Chiang Mai(city in northern Thailand), a bout of fever, a life-affirming motorbike ride, elephant snot(not related to the fever), a bamboo saxophone maker(who met Taj Mahal once), a night-time bazaar, an elixir made of some kind of birds brain or heart(tasted like clear jello, sweetened but without a flavor), and a guy who just loves, I mean, LOVES mosquitos(never kills them and thinks they're good for people).

There ya go. I'll let the pictures do most of the story-telling. Chiang Mai is beautiful and much cooler(not as hot) as Bangkok. Its situated near big hills and has beautiful artwork and handicrafts. Cheap Cheap Cheap. Everything is inexpensive. Erika finding it hard not to stuff her bags with all the beautiful clothing and the local artists can't understand why we can't take 8' X 4' framed pictures on the plane. We would if we could.

Next time(if there is one) I'll spend more time around this city. Its a much nicer pace and it actually gets quiet at night. Bangkok is just crazy.

At any rate, we're off to southern Thailand. Beaches, snorkelling, and scuba diving. Await more updates.....

What IS the Difference.

2005-11-26T03:13:00.000-05:00

On one hand we have an idol, revered by hundreds of millions, representing calmness and humility, an utter symbol of hope and peacefulness. On the other, we have a gold statue that's kind of weird looking.

Who is this Guy?

2005-11-26T03:08:00.000-05:00

You've all wondered:
This is Harry. Although we have travelled long distances with him, we're still not sure just WHO he is. Or who he thinks he is.
(and what's with the umbrella?)

Statuesque

2005-11-26T03:05:00.000-05:00

What happens when ancient artwork meets modern beauty?
If its anything its CUTE.

More Angkor Wat Area

2005-11-26T02:41:00.000-05:00

Specifically Bayon, Ta Prohm, and Ta Preah. Oh, that crazy Jayarvaman VII- just a crazy King always building something.

Various Angkor Wat Area

2005-11-26T02:21:00.000-05:00

These pictures are of the jungle devouring some of the ruins. It is so damn cool.

2005-11-26T02:07:00.000-05:00

Can you find the orange shorts-wearing freak?

Mansion

2005-11-26T01:57:00.000-05:00

The Royal Palace Mansion

A Silouhette Familiar

2005-11-23T05:13:00.000-05:00

Erika enjoying a sunset from our hostel in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Not bad for a grungy city.

A Deep-Fried Cockroach in Hand.....

2005-11-23T00:34:00.000-05:00

.....might be better than twelve live ones on your bathroom floor, but I might never know. Harry, Erika, and I never had the nerve to try these crunchy roadside treats. We did, however, eat some silk worm larva. All I have to say is, "Gooey".

The Royal Palace(Thailand)

2005-11-20T20:15:00.000-05:00

The Royal Palace is this ridiculously lavish place. It is so finely detailed from the brilliantly colored tile of the columns and outside walls to the gold leaf and mother of pearl inlay of window shutters. It is a visual overload. I'm taking a break here by these giant guards. And yes, my legs are tan now.

Angkor Wat and Us

2005-11-20T20:04:00.000-05:00

Here we are in front of Angkor Wat. In front of this pool is probably the most popular place to have a picture taken and we were there at the most popular time of day. That's right, sunset. We were able to elbow our way in from the unruly, camera-toting crowd and get Harry to snap this gem. (Notice the pointy shape of my head and compare with the Buddha image. Hmmmmm...... is there a connection?)

Angkor Wat

2005-11-20T19:55:00.000-05:00

One of the key temples of the Siem Reap area. Built in the 12th Century, it was created as a funeral place in honor of the Hindu god Vishnu. It is the largest "monument" of the area and one of the best preserved of all the temples. It faces the west and is best photographed at sunset.

First Blog

2005-11-20T13:20:00.000-05:00

November 20th: Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Just starting this damn blog business- orginally, just to leave a comment on a friend's blog, but now I'm thinking its just easier to share my travel info. I didn't leave my "friendly"email address so if you need this just leave a comment and I'll send it to you(good old spam mail paranoia).

So, been off ice since Oct.11. Spent three weeks in New Zealand, mostly around Christchurch but did spend a week with a rental car. Included a night at a hot springs resort, a sunset horseback ride, a sunrise swim with Dusky dolphins, and many interesting semi-legal camping spots. New Zealand is a beautiful place; how lucky we are to have it as a free stop-over.
Erika, harry, and I spent a week in Bangkok(arrived Nov. 1st) and saw some sights. Most were incredible, and some were horrifically incredible. Incredible are the temples, the palaces, the saffron-robed monks, the large void between rich and poor, the open markets, the FOOD, everyone trying to sell you anything. Horrifically incredible is mainly the driving(however Cambodia betters Bangkok by a few notches), the poverty, the sleaziness of dirty-old-white man tourists with young Thai women as well as the audacity of the Anglo tourist. Most will give money before giving a smile or eye contact. Of course, the Good outweighs the bad. At any rate.....

A lot since then. A flight to Siem Reap(Nov.8th), seeing Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, and a few other 800 to 1000 year old buildings/artifacts. Some have been restored, or partially restored, by the French, some overtaken by the jungle. All hold a pious air, untouched by many centuries, that still bring believers bowing on their knees to thank their makers, their ancestors, and I don't know what else. I can say that I understand but I do not. At least, not yet.
After the holiness, came Phnom Penh, the capital city. It is a city. We saw some sites(Toul Seng, the Killing Fields, a few museums) and the beginning of the Water Festival. All beautiful, even if sad, but the Water Festival was too many people and too much craziness. We left. And here we are at the beach.

Well, more later. I'm trying to keep these short in order to maintain some of you ADD people out there. I'll be adding pictures when I can but for now, just my words.
Hope you are all well and finding what you need.
Much love